Sunday, 15 April 2012


 Table Rock above and below,the most formidable wave i'd surfed! v-heavy, v-spooky.Thats"salisbury" Mark Wheal showing a dinged up board from falling into a blowhole in the reef!, as we got out Edwin Santos the local legend turned up and tore it apart! we were just surviving out there!.

 Above photo is "wilderness" a bigger wave break, we turned up in the "Caddy", the locals were less than pleased to see us, but we were 10 strong so apart from the "Gringo" abuse and intimidation we had some good waves!
 Above was our main break Marias/Rincon we surfed this daily and had it massive one day,the day that Tres Palms broke massive!.These were the biggest waves i had surfed,and i had some beautys{i thought so anyway} until the horizon went black! and me and Darrel the Barrel Williams got hit so hard that it wasnt funny! we just had time to look at each other as if to say "fuck" before impact, and frankly that was us for the day!!
 Big Ern and our boards,Erns was a 6'10'' {red} and mine was a 6'8'' Lightning Bolt both single fins as the thruster hadnt been invented yet {tho the Bonzer had!} they were meade by Bruce Palmer/Ted Deerhurst, up in north devon,great boards!

 Above is my McCoy that i bought in San Juan on the way home from the Playero shop,as soon as i saw it i had to have it! only problem it was the owners brand new board!!, I pestered them hard until a phone call was made and i got it ,it cost me $300 it was a classic board,single fin with a lightweight foam and glass fin it was state of the art McCoy template and took my surfing further than any board so far, i still have this board in a sorry state.Ironically Malcolm Campbell goes to PR to shape boards for the owner Tony/Playero and told him the story i think he remembered it as well!
The "CADDY" the best/worst $400 bucks we spent,this car was on its arse way before we bought it but managed to serve us well? all the tyres were through to the canvass and she was a moody bitch when she wanted to be, but you have to admit she woz KOOL, boards on top boards in the boot and fit us all fairly comfortably, whats not to like, cazy times!!

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